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Vietnam’s coastline is spectacular. It’s cities buzz with capatalist vitality – and a zillion mopeds. The food is mesmerising. How much has changed since the war, marvels veteran reporter Michael Buerk, as he travels the length of the country.

michael buerk in vietnam
When i was a young reporter, Western visitors to Hanoi were greeted with a Sam-2 missile up the afterburner, followed, if they survived, by several years locked into a rusty iron stockade.
Thirty five years later, arriving as a veteran, i met with a rather different welcome: air conditioned limousine and the most beautiful girl in the world, sleek in a skin-tight, pearl coloured ao dai, carrying two bottles of ice-col Laurent Perrier. Times change.
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