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Flying into Lyngen shafts of light penetrate the clouds, bouncing reflections from cascading rivers and cobalt blue, beaming mountain lakes. I am awe-struck by the colossal Lyngen Alps thrusting close to 6000ft upwards, directly from the fjord. They follow the western shore of the Lyngen Peninsula as far as the eye can see and dominate the horizon like a family of sleeping giants, huddled together for protection against the harsh, icy north.
lyngen fjords
I am staying in Lyngen Lodge, a traditional Norwegian-style log building. Nestled between Lyngen Fjord to the east and Ullsfjorden to the west near the sparsely populated village of Djupvik, inside it is similar to a North American ski cabin,with a large, open social area offering panoramic views of the fjord and Strupbreen, a large glacial finger that curls over the opposite side of the valley, and cozy bedrooms to retreat to.
“There is a spectacular outdoor jacuzzi where one can relax in the warm bubbles with awe-inspiring views of the mountainous horizon. It is a truly spellbinding setting, and, after an active day in the great Norwegian outdoors, it proves the perfect place to hang up my wet socks and warm my toes by the open fire.”
Dry as stockfish, I set out to discover the Reisa Valley National Park. The best way to explore the park is by boat along the Reisa River, which meanders all the way from the Finnish border to the Atlantic, intersecting the park and giving it it’s name. The valley is a Scandinavian Eden gouged out during the last ice age. Thick birch groves flank the river and vast scree slopes intersect it, fast-flowing tributaries tumble down steep ravines. The mighty Mollis Falls, Norway’s second largest waterfall, plunges a massive 883ft into the river and fills the air with a dewy mist that cleanses your lungs but soaks your clothes.
In the winter Lyngen becomes a mecca for the more zealous and audacious off-piste skiers. The combination of the snowy latitude and climate tempered by the Gulf Stream has made it the perfect place to escape the masses and enjoy some skiing in an unspoilt arctic environment.
“Some slopes can only be accessed by boat and, without the luxury of lifts and cable cars, the devout tourers will climb for hours to experience the dramatic, lucent vistas and virgin slopes to carve all the way from summit to sea.”
the spectacular northern lights
Between 21st November and 21st January Lyngen is enveloped in the polar night. The sun disappears completely under the horizon casting the region into a spell of darkness and cold. Only at midday does the sun burst the membrane of the horizon, spilling vast amber shafts into the skies. On 17th May the sun rises and it doesn’t set again until the 20th July, melting the snowy blanket of the winter.
The intense contrasts between the seasons make this region a photographer’s paradise. There are so many conditions of light that are as striking as they are varied.
“Of course, it is here in the polar winter that one can experience Aurora Borealis.”
Named after the Roman Goddess of dawn (Aurora) and the Greek word for north wind (boreas) the phenomenon projects kaleidoscopic displays of greens, violets, and blues across the skies in ribbons and waves from east to west. Between 6pm and midnight on a clear night Lyngen’s northern skies manifest some of the most trenchant viewings in the world.
icy fjords
It is August now and the landscape glows an envious green with luscious verdure. The only snow that remains is in the cirques on the high mountain peaks and on the glaciers. We are on the cusp of the Norwegian autumn and there are only four hours of darkness to dry my clothes and regenerate from an activity-packed day. Thankfully, when the sun rises at 3am – I do not. I am usually up at the first sign of light and it is a tribute to the serene and silent milieu at Lyngen Lodge and the quality of the previous day- exertions that I remain as slumberous as the giants in the Lyngen Alps.
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