New York has long been synonymous with creativity and a very clear design aesthetic which embodies a fresh spirit with an aversion to natural convention. No two individuals could encapsulate this better than up-and-coming designers Katie Ermilio and Daniel Vosovic. Unlike their European counterparts, both designers established their own labels early in their careers, representing bravery typical of the Big Apple. Although completely different aesthetics, with Ermilio preferring to sit pretty while Vosovic shows off his street cred, both succeed in encapsulating the character that is New York City.
It is a rare find to uncover a designer who at the impressionable age of 26 has formed an aesthetic and vision likened to the work of fashion royalty Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera. However New York designer Katie Ermilio proves to be the exception. Practically born with a sewing needle as an appendage, this fourth generation Ermilio has tailoring in her genes. An impressive lineage that includes a grandmother who was the personal clothier to Grace Kelly and a bespoke tailor for a father, it is clear where her talents come from.
Translating the masculine essence of her Father’s bold shapes and sharp tailoring with a girly wistfulness into her collections, Katie Ermilio captures the current ‘it’ silhouette of the 1950’s woman without being a victim of the zeitgeist. Having established her aesthetic from the cutting room floor of her family’s namesake tailors and developing her designs for the modern women, influenced no doubt by her early days at Teen Vogue and later Vogue, her SS12 collection is a mixture of clean silhouettes and tulip shapes . Although the shapes hint at New York high society the palette ranges from the soft ice cream shades to bolder splashes of colour which echo the spirit of a twenty-something, making it clear that Katie Ermilio, although belonging to old-school glamour, stitches and sews with a girly heart.
The darling of Project Runway season two, Daniel Vosovic has managed to escape the fate of most reality stars, demonstrating a depth of design kudos that promises to follow in the footsteps of New York heavy weights Gurung and Wang. Since his first appearance at New York Fashion Week in 2010, Vosovic’s career has grown not just vertically but also horizontally.
Tackling the world of art direction, capsule collections, and most recently, penning the acclaimed coffee table must-have ‘Fashion: Inside out’, Vosovic proves that each project embossed with his name is a sure- fire recipe for success. However the true genius of his work doesn’t hide between the pages but is clearly visible in his latest FW12 collection. Designed, cut, sewn, and produced in NYC, this label shows off a talent beyond his 26 years. Each garment, although dripping with sophistication, captures a New York edge – think denim jackets in neoprenes, draped/structured gowns and school girl classic skirts in luscious thick silks. Did someone say CFDA award?