Eight days in Japan with Greg

We’ve seen the world – and we will see it again. But in the meantime, we’re going to keep in touch, reminding you of why we travel in the first place. That’s why we’re looking back at the trips we’ve made in order to feel the thrill of the trips we’re going to take. Place by place, face by face – we’re looking back to look forward.

Here, Greg recounts his first-ever trip to Japan; a destination he’d been desperate to cross off his list for years.

Words by Greg

Home of mysticism, oriental charm, Japan has been on my list since my father showed me a photograph of Mount Fuji’s conical dome, snow-dashed and intimidating amongst the otherwise low-lying surroundings. The route that I took was a little different than a traditional Japan itinerary you might see scrolling through a travel site.

Day one

Upon arriving in Osaka after another 2 hour flight, the transfer to Kobe was another reason for excitement. Hailed for the finest steak in the world, Kobe beef is raised with unique techniques, allowing the meat to transform into melt-in-your-mouth like you’ll never have tasted before. Naturally my first visit after checking-in (and catching up on a few hours of sleep) was to source some of this famous cuisine for my evening meal, and it didn’t take long to do so.

Day two

Starting the day with sake tasting just 30 minutes after breakfast isn’t something I’d recommend if you’re expected to be productive in any way, but if you’re on holiday in Japan it’s something I’d say is a must. And Kobe being home to the legendary Fukuju brewery meant that this was the order of the day as I took a short walk to the brewery from my hotel.

The sacred and social roots of sake being a drink of the Gods is a powerfully believed and honoured tradition in Japan. Keep your eyes peeled on side streets for hanging balls of cedar, referred to as ‘Sugidama’, which is the national sign for sake. Back in the day, Sake makers would hang up a fresh green sugidama in November or December, right after they had pressed sake made from the new rice harvest, and this tradition is now used all year round to signify that there’s sake inside.

Day three

Today we ventured out to Onomichi, a cyclists’ haven where several routes stretch across the scattered islands and take you across a series of suspension bridges (including the longest in the world). We started pedaling early in the morning, but you’ll quickly understand why as you make the bend around the second island. The sunrise stretched over the water from east to west with clear views in all directions. Of all the views I anticipated seeing in Japan. I never thought this would be one of them.

Day four

Today started off with a traditional Japanese breakfast at Bella Vista Spa and Marina. The modern kitchen served a combination of complex flavours, from sea urchin to a miso soup that came complete with a crab claw, my advice – try everything that’s offered to you, even at 7.30am.

Our next stop along the way: Naoshima. The usually sleepy island is typically greeted by the thousands during the Naoshima Art Festival every year. I had heard stories of the underground Chi Chu museum, Yayoi Kusama’s pumpkin installations and Monet’s Water Lilies long before my visit, so I knew exactly what I was looking for (though, you can’t really miss them).

Day five

Bonsai World is an incredible experience. It’s amazing to see the sheer variety of Bonsai and the care and detail that goes into their tending. In the late afternoon, I headed to Ritsurin Park for a tea ceremony. Dating back to the 17th century, these verdant gardens were built for the feudal lord of Sanuki and nestle at the foot of Mount Shiun, offering a slice of peace and solitude all year round. Afterward, I headed on to a traditional indigo dying factory, another perfect place to pick up / make a souvenir.

 

Day six

Nestled in the heart of the highlands, I drove up to the Iya Valley where I had the chance to stay at the incredible two-hundred-year-old home of Alex Kerr. My time spent here was unlike my time in any other region of Japan. We had little access to wifi (talk about a digital detox!) and our host had arranged for a local chef to prepare cuisine for us specific to that region.

While you’re here, don’t forget to stop by the area’s iconic Vine Bridge – but maybe give it a miss if you suffer from vertigo.

 

EXPERIENCE: JAPAN

From ancient Samurai swordmaking to the most exclusive Sushi restaurants in the world, our Japan itineraries are some of the most diverse and enthralling experiences you can imagine.

EXPLORE JAPAN

Day seven

The next morning I woke early and celebrated my birthday with an early morning flight to Osaka. You can also take the train but I wanted to arrive earlier to have the full day and night to explore. Osaka’s counter-culture, food scene and sights, both traditional and neon-flooded, had been well-recommended and I couldn’t wait to experience what was on offer.

Day eight

After one brief but beautiful night in Kyoto, it was time to experience one of the most iconic modes of transport on earth.

The bullet train. Believe the hype. There’s no way to fully describe it. You’re travelling at 320km/h watching the landscapes seamlessly fold into each other, when around 2 hours into the journey, the majestic Mount Fuji appears, perfectly completing the iconic journey before pulling into the palpable energy of Tokyo.

Once I’d tackled the smaller regions of Japan, visiting Tokyo felt like my first time ever exploring a city, but it wasn’t what I expected and I fell instantly in love with the Japanese capital. It’s busy but there’s an element of calm running throughout that I didn’t expect. perhaps that perception was due to the tranquility that had stuck with me from Setouchi. But visiting such a well-documented city and having it completely surprise me perfectly summed up my experience of Japan.

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