Anna’s Field Notes from Uganda

The Rhinos That Shouldn’t Exist

Our first revelation came at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, where we witnessed one of Africa’s greatest conservation success stories. These rhinos shouldn’t exist – poaching wiped them out completely decades ago. Yet here we stood, watching 17 of them graze in golden grassland, part of a breeding program so successful that rhinos will soon return to Uganda’s national parks for the first time in a generation.

The sanctuary’s first resident was named Obama – the offspring of rhinos rescued from Kenya and, remarkably, Disney World. Now he shares 70 square kilometres with 55 others, all visible on walking safaris that bring you breathtakingly close to these prehistoric giants.

Equipped with rubber boots for the swampy terrain they love, we crept through reeds until we found ourselves just meters from a mother and calf. They remained utterly unbothered by our presence, continuing their lazy afternoon as if we were merely part of the landscape. It was our first taste of Uganda’s unique magic – wildlife so habituated, so relaxed, that extraordinary encounters become almost routine.

Where the Nile Reveals Its Secrets

Murchison Falls delivered our first “impossible” moment. The Shoebill – a prehistoric bird so elusive that our expert guide Caesar hadn’t seen one in two weeks – appeared as if summoned. But Uganda wasn’t finished surprising us. As we rounded a bend, Caesar’s excitement was palpable: two Shoebills perched together on the same tree.

“They must be a mating pair,” he whispered. “You are incredibly lucky.”

This is what separates Uganda from busier safari destinations – the wildlife densities that make the improbable feel inevitable. From our base at Nile Safari Lodge, positioned directly on the Nile’s banks, hippos grazed beneath our villa while vervet monkey families played in the trees above. I spent an entire afternoon on my daybed, mesmerized by a newborn monkey learning to navigate the branches – entertainment that no game drive could match.

The lodge itself deserves mention: seven villas with private Nile-facing balconies, cuisine that rivals any restaurant, and service that anticipates every need. It’s luxury that enhances rather than insulates you from the wilderness.

Into the Forest with Our Closest Relatives

Kibale National Park stripped away any remaining scepticism. Home to East Africa’s largest population of chimpanzees, the forest delivered an encounter that redefined my understanding of wildlife experiences.

After 45 minutes of forest trekking, we found him: a senior male moving with purpose through the undergrowth. We followed at respectful distance as two females joined him, creating an impromptu procession deeper into the rainforest. When he stopped to strike a massive tree trunk – the hollow boom echoing through the canopy – before ascending to feast on berries, we witnessed behaviour unchanged for millennia.

But it was the young chimpanzee practicing chest thumps, clearly mimicking his silverback father, that created the most profound moment. Here was learning, family dynamics, social structure – a mirror held up to our own evolution. For thirty minutes, we weren’t observers but witnesses to something far more intimate.

The Lions That Climb Trees

Queen Elizabeth National Park’s Ishasha sector delivered our Big Five moment with characteristic Ugandan flair. The tree-climbing lions – who’ve adapted this behaviour to escape ground-level tsetse flies and gain hunting advantage – provided not one but two separate sightings. Watching a lioness descend from her leafy perch with fluid grace belongs to those rare safari moments that cameras can’t quite capture.

Even the leopard that completed our Big Five checklist seemed almost casual, as if Uganda was saying: “Of course you’ll see everything. This is what we do.”

The Encounter That Changes Everything

But everything – every extraordinary moment, every impossible sighting – was merely prelude to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and the mountain gorillas.

The statistics are humbling – fewer than 1,000 mountain gorillas remain on Earth. Half live in these Ugandan forests, distributed among habituated families that tolerate human presence for just one hour per day. We’d been assigned the largest family: 17 individuals ranging from a six-month-old infant to a 40-year-old silverback patriarch.

After 45 minutes of forest trekking, we found them.

What followed transcends typical wildlife encounter descriptions. For one precious hour, we existed in their world – watching as they fed with delicate precision, groomed with gentle intimacy, and played with infectious joy. A mother cradled her infant while juveniles tumbled through the undergrowth nearby. The massive silverback, easily 200 kilograms of raw power, moved with surprising gentleness as younger family members approached him without fear.

The emotional impact was overwhelming. These aren’t just animals – they’re individuals with personalities, relationships, histories. When our allocated hour ended, leaving felt like abandoning family in the forest. Several of our group were openly weeping.

The trek back passed in contemplative silence, each of us processing an encounter that somehow felt both wildly exotic and deeply familiar. This is what Uganda offers that nowhere else can: not just wildlife viewing, but genuine connection with our closest living relatives.

Why Uganda

Upon reflection, Uganda’s secret isn’t just its wildlife – though the densities are extraordinary. It’s the intimacy these encounters provide. Where East Africa’s famous parks can feel like wildlife theaters with crowded viewing areas, Uganda feels like a private performance.

The infrastructure supports this exclusivity beautifully. Bwindi Lodge, carved into forested hillsides with panoramic views, provides luxury that complements rather than competes with the wilderness. Previous guests have spotted gorillas from their private decks. Nile Safari Lodge offers similar integration, where hippos become your garden visitors and the Nile provides your soundtrack.

This is luxury travel at its most meaningful – where comfort serves purpose, where guides like Tony share generational knowledge, where every element combines to create not just a vacation but a fundamental shift in perspective.

The Verdict

I’ve traveled across Africa for years, collecting experiences like stamps. Uganda wasn’t supposed to compete with the legendary destinations. Instead, it made me question why I’d been looking elsewhere.

This is the safari destination you never knew you needed – one that delivers not just the Big Five but moments of genuine transcendence. Where else can you track rhinos on foot, spot prehistoric birds thought extinct, follow chimpanzees through primary rainforest, and sit in silence as mountain gorillas share their most intimate family moments?

Uganda doesn’t just offer wildlife encounters. It offers encounters with wonder itself.

For travelers seeking something beyond the conventional safari circuit, something that combines luxury with authenticity, wildlife with genuine emotional impact, Uganda isn’t just recommended – it’s essential. This is how safari should feel.