Field Notes from Scotland

A taste of sustainability

Our journey began in Edinburgh at 100 Princes Street hotel, gazing out at striking views of Edinburgh Castle and enjoying a delicious breakfast (in hindsight, perhaps we should’ve held back a little). Today, we would be setting off on a food tour of Scotland’s enchanting capital, seeking out tucked-away eateries run (and loved) by locals. And, as we soon realised, we would be very full.

We met Cameron – our local guide – in the hotel lobby before stepping out into the street (and the rain). Understanding that we wished to visit places that focused on sustainable and regenerative practices, he’d selected a few that he thought we’d love. Popular due to its use of locally sourced produce, our first stop was the aptly named Scottish Restaurant & Café.

As we enjoyed mackerel with crème fresh and watercress directly beneath the city’s National Gallery, he explained that in recent years work is being done to help solve this issue by sparking conversations with local fishermen who wish to pass down their craft to their children and grandchildren.

As we made our way to our next stop, we learnt that Cameron used to work in finance in client relationships. Having spent years seeking out “hidden gems” to take clients to and, being a local himself, he knew a lot of places – and a lot of people. Arriving at a tiny cheese store, he introduced us to one of the cheesemongers who had prepared a charcuterie and cheese board especially for us. As we sampled the shop’s oat cakes, goat’s cheese, and venison salami, she explained the sustainability efforts used by each of their suppliers who had provided this produce. After we’d finished, Cameron pointed out his favourite things to buy from here, explaining that in Edinburgh it was always a big tradition to line up here for hours to get your cheese board for Christmas. Looking around, we eventually settled on buying some focaccia sandwiches filled with cheese and venison salami, a Scotch egg, and some Scottish shortbread. We couldn’t resist.

When Cameron explained that for our next meal we’d be heading to John Knox’s House, where the renowned protestant reformer was believed to have lived during the 16th century, I’ll admit I was a little surprised . But instead of ducking beneath the main entrance, we stepped into the museum’s adjoining bookshop. Here, in the oldest building of the city’s historic heart, the Royal Mile (and one of the oldest in Edinburgh), we found the Haggis Box, a local business specialising in Scotland’s national dish, tucked away at the very back. Walking between books and wooden tables, we pulled up a seat before tasting their signature traditional dish: haggis, neeps (swede) and tatties (potato). Served with whiskey and mustard sauce, it was delicious.

A walk on the (re-)wild side

Leaving Edinburgh behind, we travelled north. On the southern edge of the Highlands lies Argaty Red Kites Rewilding Farm. Unsurprisingly, you’ll find red kites here – bu t you’ll also find beavers, red squirrels, and off-road buggies. With our guide, Niall, we dashed across fields and muddy trails, exploring his family’s farm in style.

First, we pulled up in the farm’s very own wildflower meadow. Filled with native flowers, kale and quinoa, it was designed to feed different parts of the ecosystem which the farm helps to support, from birds of prey to insects . Wading deeper into the field on foot, Niall picked us some fresh quinoa to try, which tasted a little like bitter pea shoots.

Heading to the nearby ponds and streams, we then wandered between reeds and trees, spotting signs of the local beavers’ handywork: intricate dams and half-gnawed bark. As we knelt in the grass, Niall gestured to the lime-green saplings beginning to sprout from a soon-to-be-felled tree.

He looked across the stream, pointing to the narrowest part. “They’ll use the old tree to build dams which prevent flash floods, while the new trees begin to grow.”

Our next stop was one of the farm’s woodland hides. Clambering out of the buggy, buckets of seeds and nuts in our hands, we quietly entered the small wooden hut, pulling up a stall each as we gazed out at the forest. Tossing a handful of nuts on the ground, we waited. Fortunately, we didn’t have to wait very long. Within a matter of moments, the first red squirrel arrived. Then the second. We watched enraptured as some nibbled on their finds without a care in the world while others darted between the trees, burying their newfound treasure for later. As we looked out between the open shutters, Niall offered us flasks of steaming tea and coffee to help keep us warm (plus a tin of shortbread he’d baked for us the night before). Needless to say, it was delicious.

For the grand finale, one of the rewilding farm volunteers took us to the red kite hide up on the hillside. As we walked, she explained the history of red kites – how they’d been driven to near extinction before breeding programs began to reintroduce them to the wild. Having grown up surrounded by red kites in my hometown (they’re my favourite animal), I loved seeing them soar and swoop as dozens of them flew above us. It was also a relief to learn that once the UK had only been able to boast a couple of red kites, while it is now home to around 6,000 breeding pairs.

A rural retreat in the Highlands

An important part of our Black Tomato research trips is to test out luxury hotels in unique locations. For this trip, I visited Kinloch Lodge (my new happy place) in the northwestern tip of the Scottish Highlands. Owned by Wildland (a conservation company working to restore the natural landscapes of the Scottish Highlands), this cozy lodge was truly tucked away from the world, beside the isolated (and iconic) 764-metre high mountain of Ben Loyal.

Encircled by pine forests, we pulled up at Kinloch. Greeted with bundles of dry robes, we immediately headed through the garden before making our way down a sloping forest trail. A few moments later, we heard the gushing of running water. The path opened up to reveal a river cascading over black rock with steps carved into the stone and a rope hanging down into the swirling natural pool below. To our left, was our very own yurt sauna and plunge pool. Noting the brooding rainclouds above, we quickly donned our bathing suits and embraced the art of wild swimming. It was breathtaking. In every sense of the word.

Fortunately, there was nobody around to witness my reaction to the fresh (freezing) river. And that was part of its magic. Here, you feel truly alone – in the best possible way. The Highlands stretch out before you, completely undisturbed. The green peaks of Ben Loyal rise in the not-so-far distance and rustling bunches of bracken and birdsong are the only sounds you hear. It’s wild. And it’s beautiful.

After warming up in the yurt sauna, we put on our cozy dry robes and headed up to the lodge for lunch. Meeting Vivian – one of the lodge’s chefs – we dined on ingredients plucked straight from the gardens (like a beetroot salad topped with fresh nasturtium leaves) as we learnt about local conservation efforts . It was humbling to hear her and her partner’s passion about ways to protect the striking natural landscapes we’d just witnessed, as well as their ideas to help guests embrace the conservation side of things a bit more. Think tree safaris and foraging adventures.