Luca’s field notes from Rwanda

Kigali – colours and curios with every step

Despite its turbulent past , as soon as you arrive in Kigali you can begin to sense the determination to thrive and flourish. An unrivalled sense of community exists here. A feeling which stretches far across the colourful city suburbs to the verdant valleys and sloping mountains beyond.

Art has helped to transform the Rwandan capital, with countless galleries and craft centres breathing life into neighbourhoods like Kacyiru where many provide support and training to those from disadvantaged backgrounds. Smears of bright, bold paint form vivid murals full of character while curio shops burst with authentic bric-a-brac – handcrafted trinkets lining every inch and carved wooden masks and intricate baskets haphazardly slung over display stands. Diverse and vibrant, as you delve deeper into this thriving art scene, you uncover everything from wood carvings, sculptures, and imigongo (geometric art) to traditional weavings, paintings, and photography.

From here, we made our way to the rich-hued stalls and energetic clamour of Kimironko Market. Hanging ripe green plantains and heaped sardine-like sambaza in one corner, vibrant wax-printed fabrics and kitenge seamstresses in another. With such vivacity at every turn, this eclectic, thriving city makes for the perfect place to begin your luxury vacation in Rwanda. Just say the word, and our luxury Travel Experts will make it happen.

Pariki y’Igihugu y’Ibirunga – into the wilds of gorilla country

One of the most compelling incentives to experience a luxury vacation in Rwanda is the chance to track the rare mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park; a place of luscious beauty formed by dome-like mountains clad in the rich green of the rainforest. Encompassing five volcanoes that slumber beneath the cragged ridges of the Virunga range, this beautiful park (or Pariki y’Igihugu y’Ibirunga, as it’s known in local Kinyarwanda) is one of the few sites on earth where mountain gorillas roam free. Deep within the thickness of the undergrowth – where peaceful habituated groups led by Silverbacks reside – are some of the best and most hypnotic hikes in Rwanda. Brimming with wildlife, filled with natural beauty.

And such a place must be protected. Encountering these beautiful creatures is one thing, but meeting and being guided by those who work tirelessly to preserve them makes the experience all the greater. It is truly fascinating to walk side by side with veterinarians and conservation experts, hearing their tales and gaining unique insights about how they monitor and provide lifesaving medical care to the gorillas in Rwanda.

Alongside one of our skilled trackers , you learn how to read the trail – the dark smudge of footprints, the gentle rustle of foliage. And then you catch sight of them – the resident primates. Grooming beneath the shade of African cherry trees, dozing in the spear-like alpine bamboo forests – the little ones playfully rolling about on soft clusters of moss. To them, this is home. To us, it’s a spectacular memory not soon to be forgotten. If ever.

Akagera National Park – a Rwandan safari

Akagera National Park is a vast, thriving wetland that unfurls into acacia groves and lakes fringed by lush grasslands. Within these landscapes, you can witness the country’s captivating array of savannah adopted species. Lion, zebra, giraffe, elephant. From our boat we watched hippos submerge themselves in the silvery waters of lake Rwanyakazinga, the second largest of the dozen or so lakes that lie within the park. They’re joined by crocodiles that weave their way across the surface. This is where the herds come to graze and bathe, where Shoebill Stalks glide above crowded banks packed tight with impala and buffalo. It’s a magnificent sight to behold.

Our hotels in Rwanda

Beyond the urban oasis of Kigali, with its burnt umber and pale orange buildings, we rested up at some of the best hotels in Rwanda – each one beautifully immersed in its landscape. This included the breath-taking Bisate Lodge and the luxurious tented Magashi Camp. Where the former embraces its leafy rainforest surrounds (an eco-chic collection of giant bird nest-like villas tucked in the trees of Volcanoes National Park), the latter is an idyllic base camp set on stilts overlooking the glittering waters of Lake Rwanyakazinga. An intimately tranquil retreat from which to embark on an exceptional safari adventure.

Final thoughts

My journey into Rwanda was exhilarating and adventurous. I spent much of my time in the wild heart of gorilla country and the rolling plains of the north. But, of course, there are other ways to uncover the secrets of Rwanda’s famed mountain gorillas – and other luxury resorts in Rwanda from which to explore (One&Only Gorilla’s Nest and Singita Kwitonda Lodge, to name but a couple) . Whenever and wherever you wish to embark on your next African adventure, we’ll start designing it for you. Today, if you like.